2021 new arrival Mastering online sale Spice: Recipes and Techniques outlet sale to Transform Your Everyday Cooking: A Cookbook online

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From the Publisher


Carrot Pasta with Poppy Seeds


Tomato and Pepper Pizzas with Sunny-Side-Up Eggs


Spicy Garlic and Oregano Meatballs with Blistered Grape Tomatoes

Description

Product Description

Spices are the fastest, easiest way to transform a dish from good to spectacular. In his new book, Lior Lev Sercarz, the country''s most sought-after spice expert, shows you how to master flavor in 250 inspiring recipes, each counting on spices to elevate this collection of everyday and new favorites.

NAMED ONE OF THE BEST COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR BY THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK REVIEW

Spices are the magic ingredient in Lior Lev Sercarz''s newest book, Mastering Spice, and all it takes is a pinch to bring your meatballs, roast chicken, or brownies to the next level. Owner of New York City spice shop La Boîte, and a professionally trained chef who has cooked at some of the world''s most renown restaurants, Lior''s simple and straightforward approach showcases how spices and spice blends can take a recipe for chicken soup, meatballs, or brownies into a whole new and exciting direction. Every section begins with a master recipe and technique--then Lior teaches readers how to change the spices or some of the ingredients to get a profoundly different dish than what you began with. By mastering the techniques and playing with the variations, you''ll learn how to use spices to become a more creative and intuitive cook, and how spices can endlessly heighten your eating experience.

Review

“Armed with just the ingredients in your pantry, you’ll find the book transforms cooking into a delightful (and manageable) game of choose your own adventure.” Eater

“The Svengali of spice Lior Lev Sercarz is at it again! . . . The book showcases how the perfect spice blend can take straightforward recipes like chicken soup, meatballs, and brownies—yes, even brownies—from ordinary to sublime.” Vogue

“Lior Lev Sercarz, the self-proclaimed ‘King of Spices,’ is a standout when it comes to seasoning: His spice blends have graced the kitchens of famous chefs and at-home cooks alike.” CBS This Morning

“Having cooked at some of the world’s very best restaurants, Lior will have you mixing and matching your seasonings with ease to a seriously flavorsome result.” Simon Said

About the Author

LIOR LEV SERVARZ is the chef and owner of La Boîte, a destination spice atelier in New York City and the author of The Spice Companion. He worked for multiple Michelin-starred chefs before turning to his true passion: helping home cooks and master chefs embrace new flavors and discover the world of spice. His collections are sold online at laboiteny.com and in select stores. He lives in New York City with his wife and children.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

INTRODUCTION

My Story

My goal for this cookbook is simple: I want to show you how easy it is to transform everyday dishes just by adding and changing spices. It’s how I cook at home, after cooking as a professional chef for two decades. I rotate straightforward techniques that I’ve perfected over the years and change the spices and other add-ins for completely new dishes. Rather than swap methods for roasting vegetables or simmering beans, I simply switch the seasonings. This is a great way to learn how to cook: mastering basic techniques makes it easy to master new seasonings. 

The dozens of techniques I’m going to teach you are ones that you can count on—always. They’re like master recipes; they offer the foundation and process for getting the juiciest roast chicken, the creamiest risotto. In some cases, only the spices vary. In others, supporting ingredients, such as the vegetables that roast under whole fish or the liquids for soup, are swapped, added, or omitted even as the technique stays the same. 

After more than twenty years as a professional chef and twelve years as the owner and master spice blender of La Boîte, I’m excited to share all I’ve learned about cooking with spices. Namely, that a modest investment and minimal effort can result in complex, nuanced dishes. All you have to do to end up with a restaurant-worthy meal in record time is buy a few fresh ingredients and reach into your pantry for spices.

As far back as I can remember, I’ve loved food. While I can’t recall my toddler years in Rome, my mother assures me that I relished all the pasta. I do have memories from living in Brussels as a seven-year-old, though, setting little pots and pans on the radiator to “cook.” I remember going with my grandfather to Antwerp, his hometown. He bought me a watch and a cone of fries with mayonnaise. They were the best fries—pure fluffy potato under crisp shells—and that they came from my very strict grandfather makes the memory even nicer. 

I was born in northern Israel, and when my parents, sisters, and I returned in 1982 when I was ten years old, we found a horrible culinary environment—a pale shadow of what it is today. The many groups that make Israel diverse and delicious—Iraqis, Algerians, Moroccans—cooked great food, but in their homes, not in restaurants. As in America in the ’80s, the conversation around good food simply wasn’t happening yet. The kibbutz where I lived was a cash-free communal society—everyone contributed to the whole, including sharing kitchen duties. Everything was flavorless; food was not a celebration so much as a means of survival.

Even though we had to run to the bomb shelter every Monday and Wednesday (the alarm would go off and we’d get up and go, even if it was midnight), I still had a lot of freedom as a kid. On a kibbutz, the kids run free—we lived separately from our parents and only saw them for a few hours a day. I’d go fishing with my friends after school, and then cook our catch for dinner the way my father taught me. When sweet potatoes were in season, we’d build campfires and bury them in the smoldering logs until the skins ashed over and the flesh caramelized. When we craved ice cream or snacks, we’d pick up whatever we wanted from the store and bill our parents’ accounts—it was heaven for a kid!

When I turned nineteen, I started my compulsory military service with the Israeli army. I did what was asked and, after two years, got a nice promotion to sergeant. One night, during drills, I was dropped off in the middle of the desert and had to find my way back with only the stars and moon for navigation. I remembered the route from the afternoon exercise, but still I thought, What the hell am I doing here?

I was afraid of disappointing my dad, because he had been a paratrooper officer and was proud that I had been chosen for elite training. It was a well-paying job with early retirement and benefits, but it wasn’t for me, because I just didn’t like the military. I wanted out. I didn’t see it as a career. I packed my things, got on a bus, and reported to military court because you can’t simply turn down a promotion. It’s considered an act of disobedience. After waiting for hours, I was told how severely I should have been treated for my defiance. They could have sent me to jail, but they did something worse—I was shipped out to fight in Gaza. And that was that. 

During my three years of service, I felt no fear. People threw Molotov cocktails at us; they dropped refrigerators on us from fourth-floor balconies. It was a strange reality, to say the least. 

You develop a different set of values when life and death are involved. Every holiday feast becomes a big deal, even a bite of the most perfect challah is something to remember, because you start to think that tomorrow, this could all be gone.

When I left the army, I realized that I wanted to try cooking and that there was more to food than what I had known. But I wasn’t sure where to begin, so I did what most Israelis do after military service and took a big overseas trip. Because my older sister had gone to South America after her time in the military, I did too. I spent a year traveling throughout the continent and cooking for fun. When I returned to Israel, I decided to try cooking professionally.

Israeli chef Gil Frank took a chance on me and gave me a job at Menta, his catering company. Frank said, “I’ll hire you because no one has ruined your brain yet.” He meant that I hadn’t learned how to do things the wrong way at another cooking job, so he could teach me the right way. For the next three years, he did. Frank showed me how to hold a knife, dice an onion, master all the basics. He also gave me a lot of freedom and responsibility and helped me see that cooking could be a career. After three years, Frank said, “You’re pretty good at this, so it’s time for me to let you go.” I owe Frank a lot, especially for urging me to move on.

With Frank’s encouragement, I set out for culinary school in France, because there weren’t many options in Israel. Plus, a young Israeli chef I met right after he returned from French culinary school told me he loved it. After looking into cooking schools through the Cultural French Institute in Tel Aviv, I spent a week in France visiting the options. I chose the last place I visited, the Paul Bocuse Institute in Lyon, because it offered classes in baking and management as well as the standard savory cooking courses.

During the two-year program, I learned what I needed to know to succeed as a chef. It wasn’t just about cooking, creating, and being inspired—the classes included accounting, purchasing, and nutrition. But I was a hardheaded twenty-five-year-old and grew bored in a classroom. I wanted to cook, not do profitand-loss paperwork! I found a six-month externship program in Céret in the French Pyrenees, and while I thought that the unique Catalan culture and culinary traditions were very interesting, I was even more intrigued with a book given to me by a culinary school instructor. It was written by chef Olivier Roellinger about his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Maisons de Bricourt in Brittany. This was where the world of spices truly opened up for me. 

Even though Roellinger had a strict no-intern policy, he and his wife, Jane, reconsidered after I sent multiple letters requesting an internship. To this day, I don’t know what changed their minds; all I know is that they changed my life. They not only took me on as an intern, but paid me, got me an apartment, and introduced me to a new way of understanding spices. Because the world’s spice route passed through Brittany’s ports, Roellinger incorporated seasonings from around the globe extensively into his cooking, marrying far-flung spices with local seafood and produce. He infamously paired locally caught lobster with a Thai curry sauce—standard fare now, but revolutionary then. The spices had come from the other side of the world but didn’t take away from the local cuisine. My mind was blown. When I told Roellinger how excited I was by the spices and how he used them, he encouraged me to pursue my interest. He sent me to the local library and we began researching spices together. He never taught me how to use them; rather, he said, “I don’t want you to become me. You have to find yourself.” 

After a few more years in France, I moved to New York City in 2002 and joined renowned chef Daniel Boulud at his Michelin-starred flagship restaurant. It was a high-volume and demanding environment, where, as executive chef of the catering arm, I cooked for eight hundred events a year, and not in a restaurant kitchen. We were cooking off-site, at locations that felt more like high-end camping than a Michelin-starred kitchen—we used Sternos instead of stoves and washed our hands in coolers because we had no running water. After six years of that, I was ready for a change.

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4.6 out of 54.6 out of 5
330 global ratings

Top reviews from the United States

Rutikazooty
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Using in not 1 but 2 Cookbook Clubs!
Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2020
What a wonderful book. Lior Lev Sercaz takes you through many spice combinations to give you familiarity with using many different ones on a one recipe. I had never heard of ajawain, amchur powder, and cubeb (and neither has autocorrect). One cookbook club has already... See more
What a wonderful book. Lior Lev Sercaz takes you through many spice combinations to give you familiarity with using many different ones on a one recipe. I had never heard of ajawain, amchur powder, and cubeb (and neither has autocorrect). One cookbook club has already brought friends together with dishes from the book that we all got to sample. You have to make his olive oil cake variations. Another cookbook club has yet to meet where we cook together in advance and make a dinner with a planned menu from the book. So looking forward to it. The beauty of this book is the first recipe followed by about 4-5 variations on the next page that showcase different spice mixtures.

I did buy a small electric spice grinder for this and our family is using this grinder all the time. (Bought the Shardor brand one on Amazon with 2 containers—one for dry and one for wet spice combos). Don’t know how we cooked without it.

You are in for a treat at the hands of this master chef.
25 people found this helpful
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John D. Bruckman
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Love this Cookbook
Reviewed in the United States on October 22, 2019
I have made several recipes from this wonderful cookbook just days after receiving it... it really teaches you and challenges you to use new ideas when it comes to spices - white peppercorns in your banana bread? Magical... the herb risotto, was a huge hot at home... will... See more
I have made several recipes from this wonderful cookbook just days after receiving it... it really teaches you and challenges you to use new ideas when it comes to spices - white peppercorns in your banana bread? Magical... the herb risotto, was a huge hot at home... will be making many more dishes in the days to come I love it so...
23 people found this helpful
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Tracy Pinkelton
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Fantastic toolkit
Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2020
I''m really horrible at following recipes religiously. This book is pretty much made for my ''digging through a cookbook for the tool I need right now'' approach. "Hmm, I have some squash but want to do something other than just roast it up. This has recipes for both carrot... See more
I''m really horrible at following recipes religiously. This book is pretty much made for my ''digging through a cookbook for the tool I need right now'' approach. "Hmm, I have some squash but want to do something other than just roast it up. This has recipes for both carrot soup and sweet potato puree that would translate well to using squash instead. And look, the variants on the carrot soup include using it as pasta sauce. Spicy squash pasta for dinner tonight."

The spice blends run from fairly obvious parings (garlic/basil/rosemary/tomato) to ones I wouldn''t have tried on my own (raisins with coriander/fennel? Made a winter veggie salad sing) and thus gives me some new mental groupings of spices to improvise with.

As a vegetarian, I''m also really appreciative that a rather small section is devoted to meat dishes, and pleased to have a whole section that includes eggs, which tend to be neglected in cookbooks. I''ve been pulling this out regularly since I bought it.
17 people found this helpful
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Honeybee
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Beautiful cookbook! A must have for anyone who likes to cook.
Reviewed in the United States on October 16, 2019
I just received this cookbook yesterday and perused through it several times already. I was surprised how well thought out it is. There are so many appealing recipes accompanied with beautiful pictures that are simple to make for the average cook. I can''t wait to make... See more
I just received this cookbook yesterday and perused through it several times already. I was surprised how well thought out it is. There are so many appealing recipes accompanied with beautiful pictures that are simple to make for the average cook. I can''t wait to make several of them and start using some new (to me) spices. One can tell the author put his heart and soul into this book. It has deservedly earned a place of honor in my valued cookbook collection.
13 people found this helpful
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James C.
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Masterful Use of Spices
Reviewed in the United States on July 4, 2020
This is one of the best cookbooks I''ve ever bought. When you first look at the number and quantity of spices used in the recipes, you think "Wow, that''s a lot." But the combinations in these recipes are perfect blends that enhance each other. No spice tend to overwhelm... See more
This is one of the best cookbooks I''ve ever bought. When you first look at the number and quantity of spices used in the recipes, you think "Wow, that''s a lot." But the combinations in these recipes are perfect blends that enhance each other. No spice tend to overwhelm any of the dishes I''ve cooked, and I have cooked several. One of his cooking methods for chicken (p. 178) starts with a cold pan. I use skin-on, bone-in thighs because I really don''t care for chicken breast, but this is now my go-to method of cooking chicken. It comes out incredibly juicy! Each recipe is actually a set of five variations, and you can get creative by working with the whole mix. Yes, you will probably have to add to your spice collection (and he sells them. I use a company out of Chicago). But it''s worth it! You will not be disappointed in this book,if you like a little adventure in your kitchen!
11 people found this helpful
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David
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Blends that work
Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2019
I have purchased several of Liors publications, which give an amazing knowledge of spices there origins and uses, but his latest publication is full of spice/herb blends that really work, I have made several meals, using recipes from this book to great success and delight... See more
I have purchased several of Liors publications, which give an amazing knowledge of spices there origins and uses, but his latest publication is full of spice/herb blends that really work, I have made several meals, using recipes from this book to great success and delight to my guests. The book contains several versions of the same recipe with slight variations in blends and ingredients to give you a choice to suit your personal tastes on which dish you prefer.
I personally have a pantry full of spices and herbs so I can make almost any recipe in the book, but I encourage you to invest in a larger selection to try out the blends in this book, essentially they work really well
8 people found this helpful
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CornbreadnRice
3.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Have fun finding some of these spices
Reviewed in the United States on July 24, 2020
This is a good book for people who want to master the use of spices-that’s exactly why I purchased it. But I found it to be a bit more than what I bargained for— in that many of the spices I have NEVER heard of, which s fine, but have no idea where to find them, and I had... See more
This is a good book for people who want to master the use of spices-that’s exactly why I purchased it. But I found it to be a bit more than what I bargained for— in that many of the spices I have NEVER heard of, which s fine, but have no idea where to find them, and I had to google them to see what they were (mahleb, ajowan, amchoor, sumac, muntok White peppercorns, and cubeb) just to name a few. I love spices and am always looking for ways to mix them and incorporate them into my dishes. I have many cookbooks and I get excited to find a recipe that calls for a particular spice and I just happen to have that one or two in my cabinet. I don’t think I will be cooking very many dishes calling for some of the spices in this book, and I’m saddened by this. I would love to be able to go to a specialty and just pick up some spices, I am not interested in always having to order something online that I need to cook with. I rated it 3 stars because of this, however, I don’t want to discourage anyone from buying this book, because I actually think it’s a good book, and it tells you how to prepare one recipe a couple of different ways. The recipes included within look very taste worthy and worth the effort of preparing, but how will you get the full benefit of them if you can’t find the needed ingredients??? I think the spice connoisseur would really appreciate the challenges this book presents, I.e. finding and preparing the spices to make a wonderful meal. It just became a bit overwhelming and too much for me.
6 people found this helpful
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P. Evans
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Spices make the world go round
Reviewed in the United States on October 20, 2019
Liev Lior Sercarz is one of the world''s foremost authorities on spices. His collaborative efforts with top restaurants and chefs is unparalleled. He helps make food taste better by using spices to enhance the taste, look and feel of dishes prepared at home. A flavorful way... See more
Liev Lior Sercarz is one of the world''s foremost authorities on spices. His collaborative efforts with top restaurants and chefs is unparalleled. He helps make food taste better by using spices to enhance the taste, look and feel of dishes prepared at home. A flavorful way to a healthier lifestyle!
9 people found this helpful
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Top reviews from other countries

Translate all reviews to English
PuMa
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Wer sich für die Welt der Gewürze interessiert
Reviewed in Germany on May 6, 2021
ist mit diesem englisch-sprachigen Buch gut bedient. Früher kannte ich vor allem Pfeffer und Salz sowie ein paar typische Gartenkräuter. Lior Sercarz führt verständlich in die Welt der Gewürze ein und beschreibt genau was man damit machen kann. Die Rezepte sind gut...See more
ist mit diesem englisch-sprachigen Buch gut bedient. Früher kannte ich vor allem Pfeffer und Salz sowie ein paar typische Gartenkräuter. Lior Sercarz führt verständlich in die Welt der Gewürze ein und beschreibt genau was man damit machen kann. Die Rezepte sind gut nachvollziehbar, einfach nach zu kochen und eröffnen geschmacklich neue Welten. Viele der eingesetzten Gewürze muss man allerdings im Internet bestellen da sie im normalen Handel nicht erhältlich sind. Auch meine Englisch-Kenntnisse haben sich verbessert, endlich weiss ich was fenugrek und caraway bedeutet und kann Fahrenheit in Celsius umrechnen. Der Schreibstil ist unterhaltend und mit tollen Bildern aufgelockert, man kann das Buch auch einfach mal so lesen.
ist mit diesem englisch-sprachigen Buch gut bedient. Früher kannte ich vor allem Pfeffer und Salz sowie ein paar typische Gartenkräuter. Lior Sercarz führt verständlich in die Welt der Gewürze ein und beschreibt genau was man damit machen kann. Die Rezepte sind gut nachvollziehbar, einfach nach zu kochen und eröffnen geschmacklich neue Welten. Viele der eingesetzten Gewürze muss man allerdings im Internet bestellen da sie im normalen Handel nicht erhältlich sind. Auch meine Englisch-Kenntnisse haben sich verbessert, endlich weiss ich was fenugrek und caraway bedeutet und kann Fahrenheit in Celsius umrechnen. Der Schreibstil ist unterhaltend und mit tollen Bildern aufgelockert, man kann das Buch auch einfach mal so lesen.
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Trudy
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
This book is exactly as advertised
Reviewed in Canada on January 7, 2020
I am still reading book on spices so far so good I still have to purchase New spices to try recipes
I am still reading book on spices so far so good I still have to purchase
New spices to try recipes
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Amazon Customer
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Great gift
Reviewed in Canada on December 26, 2019
Bought as a gift. My son loves it.
Bought as a gift. My son loves it.
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Carrot Pasta with Poppy Seeds


Tomato and Pepper Pizzas with Sunny-Side-Up Eggs


Spicy Garlic and Oregano Meatballs with Blistered Grape Tomatoes

Description

Product Description

Spices are the fastest, easiest way to transform a dish from good to spectacular. In his new book, Lior Lev Sercarz, the country''s most sought-after spice expert, shows you how to master flavor in 250 inspiring recipes, each counting on spices to elevate this collection of everyday and new favorites.

NAMED ONE OF THE BEST COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR BY THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK REVIEW

Spices are the magic ingredient in Lior Lev Sercarz''s newest book, Mastering Spice, and all it takes is a pinch to bring your meatballs, roast chicken, or brownies to the next level. Owner of New York City spice shop La Boîte, and a professionally trained chef who has cooked at some of the world''s most renown restaurants, Lior''s simple and straightforward approach showcases how spices and spice blends can take a recipe for chicken soup, meatballs, or brownies into a whole new and exciting direction. Every section begins with a master recipe and technique--then Lior teaches readers how to change the spices or some of the ingredients to get a profoundly different dish than what you began with. By mastering the techniques and playing with the variations, you''ll learn how to use spices to become a more creative and intuitive cook, and how spices can endlessly heighten your eating experience.

Review

“Armed with just the ingredients in your pantry, you’ll find the book transforms cooking into a delightful (and manageable) game of choose your own adventure.” Eater

“The Svengali of spice Lior Lev Sercarz is at it again! . . . The book showcases how the perfect spice blend can take straightforward recipes like chicken soup, meatballs, and brownies—yes, even brownies—from ordinary to sublime.” Vogue

“Lior Lev Sercarz, the self-proclaimed ‘King of Spices,’ is a standout when it comes to seasoning: His spice blends have graced the kitchens of famous chefs and at-home cooks alike.” CBS This Morning

“Having cooked at some of the world’s very best restaurants, Lior will have you mixing and matching your seasonings with ease to a seriously flavorsome result.” Simon Said

About the Author

LIOR LEV SERVARZ is the chef and owner of La Boîte, a destination spice atelier in New York City and the author of The Spice Companion. He worked for multiple Michelin-starred chefs before turning to his true passion: helping home cooks and master chefs embrace new flavors and discover the world of spice. His collections are sold online at laboiteny.com and in select stores. He lives in New York City with his wife and children.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

INTRODUCTION

My Story

My goal for this cookbook is simple: I want to show you how easy it is to transform everyday dishes just by adding and changing spices. It’s how I cook at home, after cooking as a professional chef for two decades. I rotate straightforward techniques that I’ve perfected over the years and change the spices and other add-ins for completely new dishes. Rather than swap methods for roasting vegetables or simmering beans, I simply switch the seasonings. This is a great way to learn how to cook: mastering basic techniques makes it easy to master new seasonings. 

The dozens of techniques I’m going to teach you are ones that you can count on—always. They’re like master recipes; they offer the foundation and process for getting the juiciest roast chicken, the creamiest risotto. In some cases, only the spices vary. In others, supporting ingredients, such as the vegetables that roast under whole fish or the liquids for soup, are swapped, added, or omitted even as the technique stays the same. 

After more than twenty years as a professional chef and twelve years as the owner and master spice blender of La Boîte, I’m excited to share all I’ve learned about cooking with spices. Namely, that a modest investment and minimal effort can result in complex, nuanced dishes. All you have to do to end up with a restaurant-worthy meal in record time is buy a few fresh ingredients and reach into your pantry for spices.

As far back as I can remember, I’ve loved food. While I can’t recall my toddler years in Rome, my mother assures me that I relished all the pasta. I do have memories from living in Brussels as a seven-year-old, though, setting little pots and pans on the radiator to “cook.” I remember going with my grandfather to Antwerp, his hometown. He bought me a watch and a cone of fries with mayonnaise. They were the best fries—pure fluffy potato under crisp shells—and that they came from my very strict grandfather makes the memory even nicer. 

I was born in northern Israel, and when my parents, sisters, and I returned in 1982 when I was ten years old, we found a horrible culinary environment—a pale shadow of what it is today. The many groups that make Israel diverse and delicious—Iraqis, Algerians, Moroccans—cooked great food, but in their homes, not in restaurants. As in America in the ’80s, the conversation around good food simply wasn’t happening yet. The kibbutz where I lived was a cash-free communal society—everyone contributed to the whole, including sharing kitchen duties. Everything was flavorless; food was not a celebration so much as a means of survival.

Even though we had to run to the bomb shelter every Monday and Wednesday (the alarm would go off and we’d get up and go, even if it was midnight), I still had a lot of freedom as a kid. On a kibbutz, the kids run free—we lived separately from our parents and only saw them for a few hours a day. I’d go fishing with my friends after school, and then cook our catch for dinner the way my father taught me. When sweet potatoes were in season, we’d build campfires and bury them in the smoldering logs until the skins ashed over and the flesh caramelized. When we craved ice cream or snacks, we’d pick up whatever we wanted from the store and bill our parents’ accounts—it was heaven for a kid!

When I turned nineteen, I started my compulsory military service with the Israeli army. I did what was asked and, after two years, got a nice promotion to sergeant. One night, during drills, I was dropped off in the middle of the desert and had to find my way back with only the stars and moon for navigation. I remembered the route from the afternoon exercise, but still I thought, What the hell am I doing here?

I was afraid of disappointing my dad, because he had been a paratrooper officer and was proud that I had been chosen for elite training. It was a well-paying job with early retirement and benefits, but it wasn’t for me, because I just didn’t like the military. I wanted out. I didn’t see it as a career. I packed my things, got on a bus, and reported to military court because you can’t simply turn down a promotion. It’s considered an act of disobedience. After waiting for hours, I was told how severely I should have been treated for my defiance. They could have sent me to jail, but they did something worse—I was shipped out to fight in Gaza. And that was that. 

During my three years of service, I felt no fear. People threw Molotov cocktails at us; they dropped refrigerators on us from fourth-floor balconies. It was a strange reality, to say the least. 

You develop a different set of values when life and death are involved. Every holiday feast becomes a big deal, even a bite of the most perfect challah is something to remember, because you start to think that tomorrow, this could all be gone.

When I left the army, I realized that I wanted to try cooking and that there was more to food than what I had known. But I wasn’t sure where to begin, so I did what most Israelis do after military service and took a big overseas trip. Because my older sister had gone to South America after her time in the military, I did too. I spent a year traveling throughout the continent and cooking for fun. When I returned to Israel, I decided to try cooking professionally.

Israeli chef Gil Frank took a chance on me and gave me a job at Menta, his catering company. Frank said, “I’ll hire you because no one has ruined your brain yet.” He meant that I hadn’t learned how to do things the wrong way at another cooking job, so he could teach me the right way. For the next three years, he did. Frank showed me how to hold a knife, dice an onion, master all the basics. He also gave me a lot of freedom and responsibility and helped me see that cooking could be a career. After three years, Frank said, “You’re pretty good at this, so it’s time for me to let you go.” I owe Frank a lot, especially for urging me to move on.

With Frank’s encouragement, I set out for culinary school in France, because there weren’t many options in Israel. Plus, a young Israeli chef I met right after he returned from French culinary school told me he loved it. After looking into cooking schools through the Cultural French Institute in Tel Aviv, I spent a week in France visiting the options. I chose the last place I visited, the Paul Bocuse Institute in Lyon, because it offered classes in baking and management as well as the standard savory cooking courses.

During the two-year program, I learned what I needed to know to succeed as a chef. It wasn’t just about cooking, creating, and being inspired—the classes included accounting, purchasing, and nutrition. But I was a hardheaded twenty-five-year-old and grew bored in a classroom. I wanted to cook, not do profitand-loss paperwork! I found a six-month externship program in Céret in the French Pyrenees, and while I thought that the unique Catalan culture and culinary traditions were very interesting, I was even more intrigued with a book given to me by a culinary school instructor. It was written by chef Olivier Roellinger about his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Maisons de Bricourt in Brittany. This was where the world of spices truly opened up for me. 

Even though Roellinger had a strict no-intern policy, he and his wife, Jane, reconsidered after I sent multiple letters requesting an internship. To this day, I don’t know what changed their minds; all I know is that they changed my life. They not only took me on as an intern, but paid me, got me an apartment, and introduced me to a new way of understanding spices. Because the world’s spice route passed through Brittany’s ports, Roellinger incorporated seasonings from around the globe extensively into his cooking, marrying far-flung spices with local seafood and produce. He infamously paired locally caught lobster with a Thai curry sauce—standard fare now, but revolutionary then. The spices had come from the other side of the world but didn’t take away from the local cuisine. My mind was blown. When I told Roellinger how excited I was by the spices and how he used them, he encouraged me to pursue my interest. He sent me to the local library and we began researching spices together. He never taught me how to use them; rather, he said, “I don’t want you to become me. You have to find yourself.” 

After a few more years in France, I moved to New York City in 2002 and joined renowned chef Daniel Boulud at his Michelin-starred flagship restaurant. It was a high-volume and demanding environment, where, as executive chef of the catering arm, I cooked for eight hundred events a year, and not in a restaurant kitchen. We were cooking off-site, at locations that felt more like high-end camping than a Michelin-starred kitchen—we used Sternos instead of stoves and washed our hands in coolers because we had no running water. After six years of that, I was ready for a change.

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